The same water that makes boating fun in the summer becomes your boat’s anathema in winter. Water is the only common liquid that expands as it freezes. And, it creates rust when wet iron is exposed to oxygen in the atmosphere. “Winterizing” is a collective term for the necessary steps to prevent expensive freezing and rusting damage to your boat’s engine during the dark of winter.
First: the fuel
Fuel is your first priority. Boat gas from marinas is usually pure gasoline. But, if you fuel your outboard boat at a gas station, your fuel probably contains ethanol, which causes moisture-related problems during extended storage.
Either way, head off trouble by pouring marine fuel stabilizer into your tank before storage if fuel tanks cannot be totally emptied for winter storage. The tanks should be about 95% full of stabilized gas. Being nearly full reduces moisture condensation during the winter. Tanks should never be completely full because gasoline expands when it is warmed, and overflow on a warm day can create a fire hazard.
Small “kicker” outboards are particularly susceptible to bad gasoline. Stabilize that fuel and run that mixture into the engine as above. Instead of overwintering any remaining fuel, use it for another purpose. Start next season with fresh gas.
Fogging
All engines should be “fogged” to coat the insides of the cylinders with corrosion-fighting oil. Run the engine (inboard or outboard) and shut off the fuel supply. Disconnect the fuel hose from an outboard. Look for a fuel shutoff valve on your inboard engine. If you can’t find a valve, do not disconnect your inboard engine’s fuel line. A small leak inside a boat hull can create an explosive situation.
Before the engine starves for lack of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor (if equipped) to protect the intake valves from corrosion. Once the engine has stopped, remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders. Crank the engine over once or twice before replacing the spark plugs.
The “wet” layup
By far the most expensive repair from winter damage is a “frozen” engine block. This happens when plain water is trapped in cooling passages. Even a small crack reduces the best engine to scrap iron.
In the old days, water was drained from the block and exhaust manifold by removing drain plugs. Modern engines have drain plugs, but they’re seldom used because an old-time “dry” layup can easily go wrong.
Today, most experts recommend a “wet” layup. Special non-toxic antifreeze is pumped through a running engine until everything reaches normal operating temperature. Then, a boat technician uses a special tool to measure the level of protection. The only problem with a wet layup: You really can’t do it yourself because special equipment is needed.
Outboard engines stored upright are designed to drain themselves dry. You can help the process by turning the engine over by hand a couple of times. However, do not run your outboard on dry land just to “make sure.” The flexible vanes of the impeller in the water pump need water as a lubricant. Running an engine dry usually ruins the vanes. (This is true of outdrives and many inboards which also use flexible vane pumps.)
The only exceptions are some PWCs. At least one manufacturer recommends running the engine on dry land for 20–25 seconds at the end of the season to remove any water from the jet pump.
Precious fluids & lubes
The time to change lube oil and the filter on an inboard engine is when it’s still warm from winterizing. Besides, that old oil is full of corrosive by-products that have no place sitting in your oil pan over the winter.
Now is also the time to check the fluid level in the inboard gearbox. Some inboards use ordinary engine oil, but many require a specific transmission fluid. Replace the fluid if it’s unusually dark or has bad odor.
Outdrive and outboard motor lower units (known as “the bullet”) should be drained of lubricant. Look for iron filings on the magnetic plug – a sure sign of gear wear. Also, examine the old lube. If it looks like well-creamed coffee, you have a leaking prop shaft seal which must be replaced. Refill the bullet through the bottom plug opening, forcing lube upward until the lube comes out the top opening. This helps to prevent trapping air pockets inside.
First: the fuel
Fuel is your first priority. Boat gas from marinas is usually pure gasoline. But, if you fuel your outboard boat at a gas station, your fuel probably contains ethanol, which causes moisture-related problems during extended storage.
Either way, head off trouble by pouring marine fuel stabilizer into your tank before storage if fuel tanks cannot be totally emptied for winter storage. The tanks should be about 95% full of stabilized gas. Being nearly full reduces moisture condensation during the winter. Tanks should never be completely full because gasoline expands when it is warmed, and overflow on a warm day can create a fire hazard.
Small “kicker” outboards are particularly susceptible to bad gasoline. Stabilize that fuel and run that mixture into the engine as above. Instead of overwintering any remaining fuel, use it for another purpose. Start next season with fresh gas.
Fogging
All engines should be “fogged” to coat the insides of the cylinders with corrosion-fighting oil. Run the engine (inboard or outboard) and shut off the fuel supply. Disconnect the fuel hose from an outboard. Look for a fuel shutoff valve on your inboard engine. If you can’t find a valve, do not disconnect your inboard engine’s fuel line. A small leak inside a boat hull can create an explosive situation.
Before the engine starves for lack of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor (if equipped) to protect the intake valves from corrosion. Once the engine has stopped, remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders. Crank the engine over once or twice before replacing the spark plugs.
The “wet” layup
By far the most expensive repair from winter damage is a “frozen” engine block. This happens when plain water is trapped in cooling passages. Even a small crack reduces the best engine to scrap iron.
In the old days, water was drained from the block and exhaust manifold by removing drain plugs. Modern engines have drain plugs, but they’re seldom used because an old-time “dry” layup can easily go wrong.
Today, most experts recommend a “wet” layup. Special non-toxic antifreeze is pumped through a running engine until everything reaches normal operating temperature. Then, a boat technician uses a special tool to measure the level of protection. The only problem with a wet layup: You really can’t do it yourself because special equipment is needed.
Outboard engines stored upright are designed to drain themselves dry. You can help the process by turning the engine over by hand a couple of times. However, do not run your outboard on dry land just to “make sure.” The flexible vanes of the impeller in the water pump need water as a lubricant. Running an engine dry usually ruins the vanes. (This is true of outdrives and many inboards which also use flexible vane pumps.)
The only exceptions are some PWCs. At least one manufacturer recommends running the engine on dry land for 20–25 seconds at the end of the season to remove any water from the jet pump.
Precious fluids & lubes
The time to change lube oil and the filter on an inboard engine is when it’s still warm from winterizing. Besides, that old oil is full of corrosive by-products that have no place sitting in your oil pan over the winter.
Now is also the time to check the fluid level in the inboard gearbox. Some inboards use ordinary engine oil, but many require a specific transmission fluid. Replace the fluid if it’s unusually dark or has bad odor.
Outdrive and outboard motor lower units (known as “the bullet”) should be drained of lubricant. Look for iron filings on the magnetic plug – a sure sign of gear wear. Also, examine the old lube. If it looks like well-creamed coffee, you have a leaking prop shaft seal which must be replaced. Refill the bullet through the bottom plug opening, forcing lube upward until the lube comes out the top opening. This helps to prevent trapping air pockets inside.
BATTERIES
Batteries are best removed from boats and stored ashore. Electrolyte inside batteries can freeze and crack the battery case. The last thing you want is sulfuric acid draining in the bilge. Storing batteries ashore also allows you to keep them fully charged, which increases life span. Connect a small “trickle charger” to each battery for a day every month for a charged-up spring launch!
Batteries are best removed from boats and stored ashore. Electrolyte inside batteries can freeze and crack the battery case. The last thing you want is sulfuric acid draining in the bilge. Storing batteries ashore also allows you to keep them fully charged, which increases life span. Connect a small “trickle charger” to each battery for a day every month for a charged-up spring launch!
None
None
Cabin Porn: Inside
None
